Now THAT Is A Plow!

Wow!  Now THESE are plows!  Specifically they are "flange" plows.  And once again, I guess nothing does snow removal like a train!

Where's your F-350 with a V cutter on it now?

Okay, not too bad?



Okay, better, heh





While you can pretty much get these plows for a LOT of money at a local dealer, you can acquire a decent V-plow setup online here:  http://amzn.to/1MXFVCa
It's very cheap for a plow and still does a great job.  Thought probably nothing like that one
on the bottom, woah!

The Extremeties: Keep Your Hands Warm!

Now let's just get down to business;  There are only a few materials that will actually keep you warm or benefit you while you're out in the cold and wet of winter:

1.  Thinsulate
2.  Neoprene (foam)
3.  Leather (but only as a shield)
4.  Titanium (the best)
5.  Polyester
6.  Any waterproofing material (a good shield, but breathability is a must through time)
7.  Polar fleece (excellent material)

Here are some examples of some good types of items to wear for snow removal.  You'll likely want something waterproof, breathable, and warm.

Wetsuit or Diving Gear/Materials:

Sure, it seems strange, right?  But it's not.  Divers wear these materials for the exact same reasons that you should - severe cold, wet or standing water conditions.  And it all comes down to neoprene.  Specifically it's neoprene foam, but it's just referred to as neoprene.  This neoprene alone will keep you waterproof and warm - however, if you really want to be toasty, there are special diving gloves made with flaked titanium (Ti) metal within the neoprene.  Now titanium is something else.  It not only keeps in the warmth, but it keeps in the right amount of warmth too.  It's always moderate.  And better yet, it NEVER gets cold!  Now how's that for winter gear, eh?

They also have basic neoprene foam gloves now simply called neoprene gloves.  You can find them most places today, particularly online of course.  Here's a great overall cold weather work glove that uses neoprene for warmth:  http://amzn.to/1WLrshl

Thinsulate:

I refer to Thinsulate as "super polyester".  It is very much like polyester, only composed of finer and denser fibers.  This makes the insulation value go up immensely and allows gloves of typical size to be made with the insulation qualities of a full layer of polyester - which would otherwise make the gloves out to be monstrous mittens.

Polyester:

Good material and what can now be called the "standard" insulation used on winter coats, boots and gloves, traps heat quite well, but will build up moisture through time. An excellent material,  but not the best.  However, it does a good job and is very inexpensive compared to other materials.

Leather:

Naturally leather, pigskin and deerskin gloves will do quite well (with a water repellant coating and anyway, they're better as a jacket against the wind really).  But make sure you wear a nice liner or other material with the gloves.  Now is a fine time to mention wool or even sheepskin I suppose, but hey, only as a liner!  By themselves they'll not do quite as well, particularly in flowing water, which is really your situation in snow removal.  And even if you're in a plow truck, what happens when something gets stuck and you have to climb out to dislodge it or work on the plow or a part of the truck?  Right, you're right in the middle of a mass of snow or likely a blizzard type condition.  Either way, a lot of snow and that means water.  But hey, sheepskin and wool do make some of the best liners for gloves, particularly when you're only going to be working for a limited time.  If you have to work all day long or for an extended period, try polar fleece instead.

Polar Fleece:

Hey, what can I say, right?  Polar fleece is the BEST!  But it doesn't give you the waterproofing or resistance that you need for the long haul.  Once again, this is best as a liner or inner layer, but when you use it, you will NEVER be cold again, regardless of the conditions.  This material is just unbelievable in that regard when you get out there and work with it.  It's not the easiest thing to find either, but if it comes down to it, the material is so effective that you can just buy panels of the material and insert it within gloves, coats, hats, boots, pants, etc as "reflectors" for heat retention.  An excellent material for sure!

Waterproofing:

Naturally ANY of the well known waterproofing materials will due well.  For instance Gore-Tex being a prime example.  These sorts of materials are perfect for lining gloves, boots, hats, jackets, leggings, etc.  The main advantage to these materials over most other forms of waterproofing is that they are breathable.  But naturally these days, Gore-Tex and other copycats have become a near standard for making items waterproof.  A key example of the wind, water and cold shielding power of Gore-Tex can be witnessed in the military ECWCS or ECWS clothing that are hardly more than an outer liner of nylon and thick heavy Gore-Tex to keep one exceptionally warm and dry in even arctic conditions!

PowerGrab Thermo, a perfect overall winter work glove

And naturally you're going to do well while working by choosing a winter work glove or a military or equipment operator cold weather glove.  Any of these will be ideal for the conditions faced during snow removal.  And that even includes a glove designed for winter motorcycle or ATV operation of course.  Most of these gloves will have a gripping palm such as even the highly effective latex or PVC dots or gripping area layer - which will increase your gripping strength under wet conditions tremendously.  You can find a great and cheap version of the above here:
http://amzn.to/1Mdjru4 

You can also find a slightly more effective form of glove here:
http://amzn.to/1JQvcEZ
And the deluxe version of the superior gripping power rubberized palm winter work glove can be found here:http://amzn.to/1Ph9u4g

ECWS Extreme Cold Weather System

ECWS Parks With Hood Removed

So what's the ECWS all about?  It was/is a system devised by the military to keep warm in arctic conditions.  It is composed of inner insulating layers, with an outer shell liner.  In reality we already wear all of that anyway, other than the outer liner.  The outer liner is composed of nylon and thick Gore-Tex to completely keep out all wind and water, yet still maintain breathability.  Many of the newer makes are even including a fleece liner inside of this as well.  This is really going that extra mile and is IDEAL for heavy winter tasks, like plowing or throwing all of the roads on a rural property or that sort of thing.  It's even ideal for winter survival, so you won't have to worry about freezing or frost-bite in one of these suits!  They're a great idea and are relatively cheap today, only costing as much as a typical coat today, despite being a massive layer of Gore-Tex with nylon.  So if you're going to be wading through snow for hours and particularly on a rural property, I would definitely recommend picking up the outer parka and pants combo that is the main component of the ECWS system.  It's like buying a second winter coat and coveralls.  And hey, no price is too high for protecting your health/life!  And like I said, it's no longer as expensive as it used to be like in the days when this was still a cutting edge military "secret" of sorts.  Now this is used by hunters and outdoor enthusiasts all over who will be spending any real amount of time in the cold and wet.  You simply wear all of the gear you would normally wear, including your coat, hat, etc, and you place the pants and parka on OVER your coat and other winter gear.  The best way to view it would be like a shield from the environment.

ECWS System Parka: http://amzn.to/1Ok2nsr
ECWS System Pants: http://amzn.to/1FVvNtW
Full Body Snow Removal Suit: http://amzn.to/1RsHlpX
IDF Version Snow Suit: http://amzn.to/1LgAfQd

The original "7 layers" of the military ECWS system

An Israeli single piece ECWS coverall

Model T Snow Conversion!

Now here's something that most people hardly know or even think about, just how people handled the snow before the modern day.  Well, the answer is really in much the same way as we do now, just using whatever their technology could muster at the time, even to the point of using cows or horses to push a yoke with a frontal plow to clear roadways back in the day.  Well here's a few interesting pictures of a conversion sold to those with Model T's to convert their vehicles to more easily run on snow and ice.  Supposedly it didn't work quite as well as they would have liked, but judging by the amount of sales, it was likely something that worked well enough.  They simply added additional wheels to the rear and enclosed each side in a track piece for more traction/grip.  Then they would either place skis under the front wheels/tires or replace them all together with skis.  Pretty good idea, and would actually work quite well on today's vehicles as well.

Now This Is A Real Snow Thrower!

I mean hey, just take a look at this!  haha

A nice example of the type of rotary throwers they used when they needed the REALLY heavy work done for clearing tracks

The giant in action!

Or of course, you could always just use the old heave ho and give em a run for their money, right?  Nah!

Haha!  Putcha back into it!

Gotta love machines when it comes to the heavy work though, eh?

2 Stroke vs 4 Stroke

Now this one is pretty simple.  While power and efficiency can be argued, and realistically here the 4 cycle would win out in the end, there are other advantages to the 4 cycle, particularly in terms of a snow thrower. 

First off, here's how the 2 work:

2 STROKE - Ignites fuel every rise and fall of piston

A 2 cycle engine fires every single time the piston rises and a 4 cycle fires every other time the piston rises.  That right there is a big difference in not only fuel economy but also in the most important of all, wear and tear on the engine itself.  And while some argue that a 2 cycle has a far more powerful output, the reality is that the power gains are not significant enough or even more importantly, are not necessary enough to justify purchasing an engine that will just wear out on you in no time. 

4 STROKE - Ignites fuel every other rise and fall of piston

Now here's the truth of it:  A 2 cycle is dirty and self fouling.  It must be lubricated by oil added to the fuel in exacting mixtures, and this overall lack of complete and proper lubrication make it very poor and short lived in a wet environment.  Now on the other hand a 4 cycle is fully self-lubricated by it's own oil reservoir, keeping the engine fully oiled and clean, thus having a much longer life, not only just under a heavy workload, but particularly for where a snow thrower operates, in probably the most terrible and wet conditions possible.

And while for a summertime dry conditions chainsaw, a very small and very powerful engine which is the 2 stroke, is a great or even ideal option, this is NOT the case with a snow thrower, particularly if you're going to be putting over $300-$500 into your machine in order to purchase a real monster that will really get that job done right.  Purchasing a new machine every year or two is a bit much.  And for most people, the easy task of simply fueling up the beast and checking oil is enough.  Mixing fuel and keeping that specialized mix on hand can become quite a chore, particularly in a heavy winter.  And as I said, the water will just add to the fouling overall that the 2 stroke already suffers from immensely.  One way or another, you're going to be replacing that 2 stroke eventually.  How well you baby the machine by keeping it indoors in ideal dry conditions between uses will be what decides when that time comes.  Whereas the 4 stroke with it's fully lubricated system and exceptionally low level of fouling within the engine will last essentially indefinitely if taken care of properly as well.  In fact, you can even leave the 4 stroke just in the open garage door between runs or even on the porch in between and it will still last just fine.  The 2 strokes life will be shortened greatly by such treatment for sure.  And I'll give it to you this way:  In terms of power, when I've used the same model snow thrower, one with 2 stroke and one with 4, there was only a very small difference in power.  Oh, but it was noticeable!  But was it an amazing difference?  No.  So for me, looking at the overall, I choose a 4 stroke any day over a 2 stroke - for a snow thrower, a car, etc.  Any larger engine or machine.  Now for hand held devices, chainsaws and the like, well then I would go with the 2 stroke...  But that's just me right?  You have the info now, so you decide.  But in terms of no hassle and excellent self care and preservation (and well more than enough power to get the job done), it's the 4 stroke hands down for a snow thrower.

A generic pull starter

How to Fix the Pull Starter on your Snow Thrower 

For those who have a pull string or recoil starter, unfortunately this mechanism can very easily freeze up or the string will rot over the course of time.  It's quite easy to fix though, so no worries.

Also, you can pick up the replacement recoil starter mechanism and/or string rather easily by ordering them or picking them up through any hardware store or by searching down your part online by your model snow thrower of course (and I even changed out my string with a rubber coated steel cable when mine broke, but hey, that's just me).

A recoil starter opened up

Anyway, here are the replacement steps:

1.  Remove your spark plug wire so you don't accidentally start the motor - as with any machine of the sort you are repairing.

2.  Remove the T handle from your pull cord.  (Just slide it down the cord, untie the knot on the cord and pull it off).

3.  Find the screws or bolts that hold the outer cover in place. There can be screws, small bolts or even hex nuts to remove depending on the type of snow thrower you have.

4.   Remove your thrower's cover.  Next, pull out the cartridge.  Sometimes it has a couple screws holding it in place, sometimes not.  If need by, you might have to use a flat head screwdriver to ease it out.  Either way, remove it.

5.  Put the new starter string (or rubber coated steel cable, like me, haha) around the replacement recoil starter cartridge.  And leave enough extra so it can be put through and a knot made or attachment to put the handle back on again.

6.  Put the new cartridge in place (that you just replaced the cord or cable on).

7.  Now put the cover up and pull the starter cord through the throwers cover and then Put the cover back on completely (with screws or bolts, whatever).

8. Now replace your handle opposite taking it off, just put the cord through it, tie a knot at the end or attack something like a ball, clip or piece of some sort (knot is fastest, even with cable too BTW - me?  I used a clip that I put on with pliers first, then hammered into place with a couple blows against a sledge as the backing to strike against) and really just let it fall or pull it taught, whatever. 

You're done!

About as simple as it gets.  Really like most things - it's just about familiarity and the right parts and tools.

And BTW, you can pick up FLEXIBLE (that's VERY important, do not get anything too stiff) steel cable through ebay or boat building supply outlets such as Jamestown Distributors and the like.